Saturday, December 5, 2009

Burda Vest

Well that title isn’t exactly going to knock your socks off is it!
Maybe that’s one of the reasons why I didn’t end becoming a journo!

This is the next item from the wardrobe, from Burda World of Fashion, issue 05/2009.
I have been wanting some kind of a vest or waistcoat for a while. I had a denim one that I wore to death and they are really handy for dressing up a simple outfit. I liked that this one had a collar but fairly minimal details (who has time to sew welt pockets after all!).


Pic from Burda Fashion

The only things that I was bit iffy about were the sleeves; if you look closely the shoulder is cut quite high above where the natural shoulder is, so setting in a sleeve would be a bit odd. I wondered how well the sleeve would actually fit and be comfortable to wear on such a high shoulder line so just left them out.


Pic from Burda Fashion

I also rounded the front edges of the vest, you can see this in this pic, as I thought that a rounded shape would work better design wise with the curved collar.



The only other change was to ditch the lining; I didn’t really have anything in my stash to use for lining, so instead I drafted an all in one facing and chose to finish the inside seams with a commercial bias binding.





I like the facing but I don’t think that I will do that seam finish again in a hurry. While it looks very show offy, it’s fiddly to do and just adds extra thickness to all the enclosed bits. Overlocking the edges would have been fine. It’s not like I go around flashing the inside of my clothes to strangers on the street (except online of course!).

And just to show BWOF that you don’t need weird long winded instructions this is how I put it together.

Pattern
Traced a size 38. No alterations to pattern sizing at all.
Added 1/4" s.a to all faced edges including neckline, centre front, armholes and collar.
Added 1/2” s.a to all other seams.
Traced front and back facings from front and back vest, making sure that facing was clear of dart points.
Curved CF and hem edges.

Construction
Fused collar and facing pieces.
Sew darts in front and back, press.
Sew shoulder seams on vest and facing, press.
Sew collar, leaving neckline edge open. Clip seam, edgestitch on underside, turn through and press.
Finish facing edge.
Stitch collar to vest neckline.
Stitch facing to vest, neckline and armhole seams. Clip seams, edgestitch on facing side, turn through and press.
Sew side seams, press.
Finsh hem edge, turn up hem and sew.
Finish buttonhole and button.



Overall, a very well drafted vest that fits according to Burdas measurement chart.
My fabric (a cotton drill) was just verging on being too thick, so any lightweight fabric like linen, cotton, satin or a lightweight wool would be fine. Although if you go with a lining instead of a facing you could probably get away with a thicker fabric.

Disclaimer: you will note that mine doesn’t have a buttonhole. I am planning on getting this done professionally as my button is quite large and I think professional buttonholes always look better in this instance.

2 comments:

Faye Lewis said...

You did such a marvelous job, amd your vest looks so professional. I really like it that you included YOUR directions.

Mike said...

I like the button at the bottom and how much bigger it is compared to most buttons. It's nice to see that buttons can make such a big difference in the quality of fashion with cloths.