Monday, July 12, 2010

Burda 144-06-2009

A very quick post re the jersey top from Miss C’s cake eating ensemble (I was under the innocent impression that uni started next week but found out it is today aaaargh!).

The pattern

BurdaWOF June 2009 issue.

The fabric

Grey marle rayon/elastane. I bought this fabric specifically (shock horror!) to make this top and I am glad I did. It is super soft and it has just the right amount of stretch for this pattern. It wasn’t cheap though and I would really love to stock up on some more.

I cut a size 98 and it is a very snug fit. Miss C is a bit small for her age so if I make this again I will go up a size. The fit overall is great and the pattern is very well drafted.

I couldn’t be bothered trying to decipher Burda’s method of inserting the button placket and my sewing notes from college are buried deep in Siberia somewhere, so I took the easy option and just sewed on a decorative tab with a ric rac trim and some cute buttons.

I am yet to find a suitable way to finish edges on stretch garments and I think this is the reason I don’t sew them very often. My Bernina overlocker does have a coverstitch function but converting it from overlock to coverstitch is like reengineering the Tardis so I never bother.

I have a twin needle but have never used it (I probably should!) and I haven’t been able to find a supplier for a good fusible knit interfacing, so for the neck binding I did a little experiment.

I cut a strip of regular but very lightweight interfacing on the bias and applied this to the binding, then sewed binding to neck edge. This made attaching the binding to the edge extremely easy but did effectively negate nearly all the stretch in the neck, and even though it is cut quite low for a T-shirt, Miss C has a larger head than normal so there was a bit of squealing involved in getting it on.

I think that I will either have to swallow my pride and actually follow Burda’s advice to use Vilene bias tape (if I can get my hands on the stuff) or get used to converting the overlocker to coverstitch. What I would really like to do though is buy a good secondhand overlocker and just leave it set up for coverstitch all the time.

Overall though I am really happy with this top.
It looks great and Miss C loves it (just don’t tell her it’s a BOYS pattern!)


  1. Really, really cute! You're daughter's new wardrobe is adorable, and you've got me marking pages for doing some "Back to School" wear. Nice job!

  2. The top is gorgeous and looks very well made. The neckline looks great as is! You have made a "boys" pattern look very girly indeed!

  3. Why would you buy another coverlock if you'd only use it to coverstitch? Isn't it just as simple to buy a coverstitch then?

    Cute top by the way. The fabric looks so soft and I think it looks great on her.

  4. Thanks for the comments everyone, Karin it had never occurred to me to buy a dedicated coverstitch machine! I have used the industrial ones but am not familiar with the domestic machines, think I might have to go shopping, thanks for the tip!