Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Lucy La La skirt tutorial

As promised, here is a more detailed (with pics!) sewing tutorial for the Lucy La La skirt pattern.

If you haven't already downloaded the pattern, you can do so here.

I mentioned in the intro post that the sewing instructions in the pdf were pretty brief. This was mainly to save on printing, but also because the skirt itself is a pretty straightforward sew.

But being a visual learner myself ( I need to see someone do something to be able to do it myself), I know pics can be useful when learning to sew, so the following is a pictorial rundown of how to cut out and sew the skirt.

1. Cutting layout.

In all my testing of the pattern, I used fabric that was 150cm wide, and was easily able to cut the skirt out of 40cm of fabric. I have suggested to use 50cm however, which means you can cut from 115cm or 150cm wide fabric and have a bit left over. I like having leftovers because they are great to have on hand for making bias binding, quilts and especially last minute gifts!

If you are using a fabric with a nap, such as a corduroy or a one way print then you will need extra fabric.

                                       Cutting layout for 150cm wide fabric with no nap

You will notice that the Front/Back and Side Yoke pattern pieces are butted up against each other. I like to do this whenever I have pieces with straight edges as it makes the cutting go faster and saves on fabric which is always a good thing!

2. Sewing the Skirt

    Sew side front yoke panels to centre front yoke panel.
    Sew side back yoke panels to centre back yoke panel.

    The front and back of the skirt are the same, and you will notice that there are no side seams. 
    The wider piece is the centre panel for the front and back and the narrower piece is the side. 
    While it is simple for an adult to see this, I sewed a label into the 'back' of my skirts so that my
    daughter wouldn't have any trouble getting dressed by herself.

    Sew side skirt panels to centre front skirt panel.
    Sew side skirt panels to centre back skirt panels.
    Finish yoke and skirt seam edges, press seams towards side of skirt and topstitch.

Yoke seams pressed and topstitched

Skirt seams pressed and topstitched

     Sew skirt to yoke, matching seams.

Skirt pinned to yoke

    Finish skirt seam edge, press seam toward yoke and topstitch.
    Finish waist edge and press along casing line.

    Elastic casing
Note: I have used Kathleen Fasanella’s method of inserting the waist elastic without the use of a safety pin. This is a great method and one I have not come across in a home sewing context. I have briefly outlined the method here, but for a more detailed tutorial please go and have a look at the Fashion Incubator site where she has posted an excellent and more detailed tutorial

Cut elastic to fit waist, allowing an extra 2cm seam allowance. Sew elastic to form a loop.

Waist casing pressed and elastic loop

     Place elastic loop inside casing and sew down casing.

    Finish hem edge, turn up 1cm and topstitch.

    I have suggested topstitching the hem, but there are other methods you could try here.
    Blogless Anna has made a lovely pink version using bias binding for the hem, which has lots of potential for
    mixing colours and prints, or you could use other trims such as lace or ric rac to finish the hem. Because it is a
    curved hem, a fairly narrow hem is the way to go, or some fabrics such as a stable knit like ponte could even
    be left as a raw, cut edge.

   And now your skirt is done! I hope this tutorial is helpful, if you have any questions please feel free to leave a
   comment or contact me by email, I am more than happy to help with any questions you may have!

   And happy sewing!

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